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Gardens

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…life is so beautiful. After weeks of heat and humidity, we've had a series of the most gorgeous days. The late garden is blooming its heart out, and I've been bringing home tall spears of gladiolus (from the Latin gladius, for sword) in my backpack, which never fails to elicit smiles when I stop my bike at intersections. But it's not just the flowers and the harvest — displays of corn, melons, berries, peaches, sunflowers, red and yellow peppers, and ripe tomatoes outside the fruiteries – but a kind of late summer abandon in the way people are dressing, the flowered skirts blowing in the wind, the colorful tops, rakish hats, people streaming into the park with their dinner, their wine bottles, children, balloons. Everyone knows what's coming (the cruel shopkeepers are already putting winter boots and coats in their windows) but it's as if there's a collective, silent pact among Montrealers to wring every last bit of pleasure from the remaining warm, long days.

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On Sunday, we drove with friends out into the Eastern Townships to spend the late afternoon and evening talking and visiting at the home and garden of a mutual friend, G. He lives in solitude at the end of a long driveway, in a house perched on a hillside, without electricity. No other dwellings can be seen or heard, though there are others on the road.

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I've been coming here once every summer for a number of years now. The gardens, the solitude, the little meditation house, and the way the conversation always turns toward the spiritual have become precious to me, and restorative. I walked in the garden by myself, a little while, and visited my amphibious friends – salamanders, tadpoles and frogs – in the pond. We shucked the first corn of the season, bought at a local farm on the way, and V. and I picked black currants from which I plan to make some cassis eau-de-vie — "water of life" — according to G.'s recipe.

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That's the master gardener, G., seated at right above. We all brought food…there was plentiful wine…and many beautiful things to look at, and to talk about. The talk turned often to the spiritual, for we're all friends who share that interest, and in many ways this is a place of retreat.

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G.'s woodpile called to J., who likes to split wood; he added a substantial contribution of split logs for the winter and worked up a good sweat.

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Then we gathered on the porch — mercifully screened against the ravenous mosquitoes and deer flies — for dinner. That's fresh duck from the local duck farm, below, cooked with orange juice, wine, and rosemary.

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When we finished eating, it was completely dark, and we found our way back up to the main level of the house carrying the candlesticks that had lit our table as the sun went down. We did the dishes, packed our things and headed back to the cars by flashlight — and then stopped still. The sky above us was ablaze with stars, brighter and more numerous than I've ever seen, with the Milky Way stretching across it like a bright ribbon. Our goodbye chatter became silence as we gazed overhead. No other lights could be seen anywhere, and the only sounds were the occasional calls of birds, the hum of insects, and the chug of a bullfrog. Finally V. said, "Look…there's no moon, but we can see each other's faces. We're seeing…by starlight."

These brief sojourns in the countryside have taken me out of myself, and brought me back. They remind me how important nature is to me — and not just green things and creatures, but wildness. I very much need these times to be alone and quiet with nature, as I've been throughout my life; rather than making me feel insignificant or lonely these are times of unity, emptying, and renewal.

I think of that morning on the lake, the sky so magnificent, and I, so fortunate to see it. I feel my fingers pass across the rough, lichen-encrusted surface of G.'s standing stones, then grasp and tug a currant from the fragrant bush, its smooth matte roundness, each like a black pearl filled with the sun's warmth. And I remember the coolness of the slippery frog I held momentarily on the muddy shore of the pond, and the strength of his legs pushing against my hand before his leap to safety.

In the kitchen as I was cutting fruit and G. was making tea, we talked. He has been volunteering at a summer music festival that takes place each July and August. "At my age, I find that I want to immerse myself more and more in music," he said. "I get tired of words, but music takes me… to other worlds." I nodded and said, "It's important for people like us who get caught up in…" "…being articulate!" he said, finishing my sentence, and we both laughed. "It's the wordlessness of music." Just then, a bird called. "It's a thrush,"  I said. "I hear them every night, said G., "but I don't know their names."

The highlight of our trip was a visit to the Jardin des Quatre Vents (Garden of the Four Winds), a private garden owned and created by the eminent horticulturalist Francis Cabot. It's only open to the public – reservations required – four days each summer; our friends G. and S. invited us quite a while ago, and got the tickets. All the proceeds go to environmental causes. The garden, which comprises hundreds of acres and many different types of growing conditions, from formal gardens near the house to shady woodlands and meadows, a deep damp ravine, and a potager full of vegetables, fruit trees, and flowers. One of the most remarkable aspects, to me, was the use of water throughout, and there were also many sculptures — plus a lot of whimsy. Les Quatre Vents is considered to be one of the most beautiful gardens in all of Canada. Eventually I hope it will become a more public treasure like some of the famous gardens of Europe. It's fragile, though, and there would have to be a lot of care taken to control the foot traffic. We were impressed with the way the tour was handled; it was nearly three hours long, comprehensive and generous. These photos don't begin to show the variety or the detail, but I'll still let them speak for themselves. If you'd like to see more, take a look inside Cabot's book, A Greater Perfection, about the creation of this magnificent garden.

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One reason I've always drawn plants is that I'm fascinated with their individual forms. Each species is different in some essential way, and trying to capture what makes a hollyhock a hollyhock, a pansy a pansy, a maple a maple is a particular kind of challenge. You can draw the details of an individual flower or plant, but that's not necessarily "it." What gives each plant its character? Its busyness? Its solidity? The contrast of big round leaves and small flowers? A triangular aspect, or a tall straight one? Can that be set down in a few quick strokes? In different media, how can both the characteristics of species and individual plants be conveyed, the way the eye actually ranges over and recognizes them in a landscape, without getting caught up in minute details?

You could work on nothing else for a lifetime.

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As I sat under this large willow, the sun came and went behind clouds, and the branches blew gently back and
forth across my view of the pond. I was so absorbed in the drawing that
I didn't notice that a mother duck had brought her two ducklings right
up to my feet. She stood there looking at me and making little sounds
in her throat while the ducklings picked at the grass; they stayed
within a few inches of me for ten minutes or more and were the best
possible company as I worked!

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The "flowery brook" is an English-style garden laid out in serpentine banks along a
brook. Right now the Japanese iris and Asiatic lilies are putting on a
beautiful show. I want to go back and do more studies of the various
foliage forms without getting caught up in any details; I'm happiest
with the middle- and back-ground of this one, as shown in the detail above.

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It seems like at least half the people at the gardens are carrying cameras, but I didn't see a single person sketching. There were so many possibilities for drawing, it was hard to choose. I wanted to be quiet today so I guess I chose spots that were a bit out-of-the-way; the Japanese garden, for instance, was crawling with tourists but these places, and the shade garden, were little sheltered retreats.

It would be hard to explain exactly why this day has been so beautiful, so crystalline. The weather, of course: dry, warm, without a hint of humidity or oppressiveness; the activities: plant shopping in the morning and finding a new shipment of peonies at $10 per big plant; meeting up for lunch with J. in the studio; gardening all afternoon until ready to drop, and talking to my new friends there, realizing I've suddenly fallen into proximity with a bunch of new French hippie friends who are just as crazy-obsessed with plants and gardens as I've always been and are gentle lovely souls besides; back home to make a simple dinner of grilled salmon, cucumbers and yogurt, sauteed zucchini and red and yellow peppers, little potatoes eaten on the terrace as the sun goes down.

I mean…things went wrong, as they always do. I cut my wrist, I got a parking ticket, I heard some sad news. But as days go, this one was nearly almost entirely perfect.

One of these new friends has impressed me as someone who is always bubbly, always smiling, very generous and encouraging in spirit. He also has a magnificent, artistic garden. He told me today that 10 years ago he was almost dead, within months of it, in fact, until a new doctor came along and said, "Now we are going to save you."

"I guess that's why I am the way I am," he said. "I love life, I appreciate each day,  I'm happy to be here."

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After rush hour, I drove out of the city to St- Anne-de-Sabrevois, home of my favorite nursery. Well, OK, in the interest of honesty: on the way I stopped at "Arret Papa!" my favorite Quebec diner, where I had breakfast at 11:30 am: toast, an egg, "jambon maison"(a thick slice of ham), tomatoes, roties (fried potatoes) and feves au lard (baked beans.) That definitely set me up for some serious plant shopping.

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Those would be fuchsias.

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Dahlias and cannas.

I didn't buy these showy things, mostly (though I already planted some cannas in the garden, free tubers from another gardener) but did manage to acquire a trunk-load of perennials for the new garden and an equal amount of shade-loving annuals (coleus, ivy, begonias) for our terrace. From 3:30 to 5:30 I planted. Now I've cleaned myself up and am drinking a glass of wine and waiting for an old friend from Vermont, who's traveling through Ottawa and Montreal today, to arrive for dinner. We decided to try a new (to us) restaurant with a new concept. It's called Robin des Bois (Robin Hood), and has a professional chef and a volunteer waitstaff, and it's non-profit: all the proceeds go to charity.

Will report.

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All of a sudden, the météo shows yellow suns every day this week and the air outside confirms the forecast: it's hot! Seeds are up; clothes are peeling off. I took a walk this afternoon and sat in the park – a little one near our studio – and drew a bit. There was a young couple at a picnic table having a quiet but intense argument, watched by a bemused elderly woman alone on a bench; seated on a blanket with a cooler full of beer, three young people talked about circus tricks, jumping up now and then to demonstrate a stance or pose. Little girls in sunhats and dresses eating popsicles. Panting dogs. Mothers sitting and talking, their baby strollers parked head to tail like horses in a field.

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Outside the little neighborhood fruiterie, rows of potted herbs on the window ledge – basil, rosemary, mint, chives, chervil – and on the pavement, ten sturdy tomato plants in black plastic buckets. Tomorrow, maybe, I'll go on a plant-shopping expedition, confident that at least it won't snow again (hah!) There's a reason, said my friend this weekend, that May 20 is the traditional safe planting day in Quebec.

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There were actually about twice as many plants in the trunk when we got done at the nursery, and if tonight weren't so wet and cold I'd be planting instead of working on the computer. But what a gorgeous palette of colors we brought home! I'll post another picture to show you what they look like on the terrace. (Vous n'avez pas beaucoup de soleil chez vous? said the salesgirl…She liked these choices, even if the entire greenhouse was ablaze with sun-loving orange and yellow and fushia-colored flowers. And my grandmother, Victorian coleus- and begonia-lover that she was, would also approve, I think.)

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